La Esquina general manager Ahn Tang (left), owner Derek Sanders (middle), head chef Scott Sax (right), and sous chef Molly Mamay (not pictured) bring unique flair and distinct approachability to Bozeman’s food scene.
Well, the first thing you’ll need to do is completely forget about guacamole and nachos. There just isn’t any at La Esquina, Bozeman’s newest Mexican taqueria.
That’s because what La Esquina serves, with some dramatic churro-funk, are the bright, bold, fresh traditional flavors of Mexico City. Street fare for your fingers. Sophisticated sauces and entrees for your fork. And a kaleidoscope of tequilas and mezcal for, well, your late-night psyche.
Having opened in March, La Esquina is at the corner where authentic interior Mexican food and social charm meet. The union is intentional, evidenced by the very name: La esquina translates from Spanish to “the corner.” Pescado, pollo, ensaladas, ceviche—all made to take you away and, more importantly, to get you to share. Sophisticated, yes. Pretentious, no.
Here, tradition rules the menu. Or, as owner Derek Sanders says, “Any recipe over 10 years old has gotta be pretty good.” Pollo Dominguero Tradicional—featuring free-range chicken—is cut to share. Chile Relleno is balanced and robust. Tostadas Contramar artfully showcase fresh ahi tuna. Elotes Callejeros—a true Mexican take on corn on the cob— perfectly refresh. And the tres leches cake is as refined as it gets. Indeed, these time-honored dishes will remain on the menu, periodically supplemented by specials.
While the menu boasts authentic Mexican cuisine, it might come as a surprise that La Esquina has its roots in New York City, not Mexico City. All jokes aside, it may well become one of those rare success stories where a New Yorker fits quickly into Montana.
While the menu boasts authentic Mexican cuisine, it might come as a surprise that La Esquina has its roots in New York City, not Mexico City. All jokes aside, it may well become one of those rare success stories where a New Yorker fits quickly into Montana. Here’s why.
You see, in 2005, the first La Esquina opened in SoHo, where it quickly became a place worth waiting in line for. Soon, Sanders expanded to three New York locations. Street cred mixed with street charm and artists, bohemian creatives, celebrities, and Wall Streeters all sat next to each other enjoying tasty taquitos, tostadas, and bistecs.
“Our concept is pretty simple,” Sanders says. “We want to do something family style: well-proportioned, fun-to-share food that really represents the culture as well.”
New York Times reporter Frank Bruni saw it this way in his review: “[La Esquina is] sort of like Studio 54 with chipotle, not cocaine.” And later, Business Insider magazine touted La Esquina as off ering one of the best 50 tacos in America.
It’s no secret Sanders and company are bringing the same free-spirited idea here—mirroring the same decor and street front as New York, minus the clipboarded doorman. And already second-homeowners, construction workers in flourescent vests, and families with kids are mingling close and tight.
But what brought La Esquina to Bozeman, rather than, say, San Diego or Chicago?
“There’s really no one way to sell our menu. Once people understand what we’re doing, their assumptions change and they’re along for the ride.” —Ahn Tang, general manager for La Esquina
Sanders, an architect who first came to Bozeman 10 years ago to buy a 1968 Bronco, admits the location had to do with time and place. “I feel the future is in places like Charleston, Nashville, and Bozeman. And Bozeman’s the best example of a decentralized, energetic, growing economy with an interesting mix of people.”
For many, La Esquina will be a clear-cut example of Bozeman’s ever-expanding culinary complexities. For local general manager Ahn Tang, it’s a way to use his diverse restaurant talents—having hailed from the Resort at Paws Up east of Missoula and Bozeman’s Kimpton Amory Hotel—to keep the culinary heritage intact, and the vibe freewheeling and fun.
“There’s really no one way to sell our menu,” he says. “Once people understand what we’re doing, their assumptions change and they’re along for the ride.”
One of Tang’s goals also centers around the massive tequila bar, where four signature margaritas lead the collection of over 70 bottles of Mexican spirits. “My favorite drink ever is mezcal,” he says. “I would love to be the power—the movement—to really bring mezcal to Montana.”
With an empowered serving staff , Sanders and Tang have put in the eff ort to create a real, contagious energy. Their seating plan is just close enough so people might be compelled to talk to each other, and serving plates seem like they come from an old Mexican monastery.
So come early. Come late. Put on a Mexican wrestling mask if you’d like. Share. Share. Share. Talk to your neighbor. And yes, don’t forget this: When a signature margarita is called Sexico, you know you’re going to have some fun.
