Edible Bozeman

Letter from the Publisher: Winter 2022

The news that Belcampo Meats was shuttering retail operations brought a tear to my eye. Founded in 2013, Belcampo was celebrated for humanely, sustainably, and organically raising meat on a Northern California ranch. The brand’s meat was then sold through owned-and-operated restaurants and butcher shops throughout California.

I was living in the San Francisco Bay Area when Belcampo opened in the Marin Country Mart. I was so happy to find friendly, knowledgeable butchers. Each time I’d visit, I’d ask more questions and they were all too happy to tell me more about the Belcampo story: a female rancher as the co-founder, expansion of products and locations, cooking techniques to consider, and more. Their beef, pork, and chicken were exceptional—of a texture and taste I hadn’t ever experienced. I became a regular customer; the butchers and I knew each other by name.

Sadly, things changed at Belcampo. An employee at the Santa Monica location used social media to expose the company had mislabeled products, passing off other suppliers’ meat as its own. The company admitted misdeeds, investigated, claimed the deception was minimal, and promised to do better. Shortly thereafter, retail operations ceased, indicating they couldn’t regain public trust. Just goes to show, there is no match for honesty, integrity, and authenticity—traits I encounter often amongst our community here in Montana. I have found such honesty here. I’ll admit annoyance with restaurants shortening their hours or suddenly deciding to close their doors for a meal. But in hearing the news about Belcampo, I came to realize we all have to allow market forces to be what they are; we need to understand and adapt.

Patrons need to accept reality and continue to support these local businesses, on their terms.

I wish Little Star Diner was open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days a week so I could go whenever I want. When I saw Campione in Livingston was closing for a weekend to allow the staff to get some rest on the very day I wanted to eat there, of course I was disappointed. But in our region, people and quality of life come first. These fine establishments have chosen quality over quantity. Had they not, I could expect meals with less-than-stellar ingredients served by overworked and potentially underpaid staff . It just wouldn’t be worth it. Patrons need to accept reality and continue to support these local businesses, on their terms.

I’d prefer an authentic meal prepared and served by people who love to cook and serve, and then to reciprocate with appreciation for the experience. Life is full of twists and turns and although our American work ethic is admirable, it should not be at all costs. Local businesses must prioritize and make decisions. When changes are made with authenticity and communicated honestly, the people who matter will understand and adapt.

I don’t know the root cause of the Belcampo decision to shutter, but I imagine if they had told their admiring fans that business as usual was no longer possible, customers would likely have rallied around them and the Belcampo brand would have grown even stronger. They should have taken a page from our book here in Southwest Montana, a community that respects business owners’ decisions, accepts realities, and appreciates what is.

Jackie Page
Publisher

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