I’m writing this after attending this fall’s Edible Institute in Santa Fe, New Mexico, an annual gathering of people from around the country who come together to share stories of challenges and opportunities within the food system. I came away inspired, my heart overflowing from sentiments shared on this year’s theme: “The Hands That Feed Us.”
Mary Berry, executive director of The Berry Center, spoke with fellow board member and Kentucky farmer Lois Mateus of Tallgrass Farm Foundation. The Berry Center exists to build equitable and ecological farming futures based on affection—for creatures, people, place, and planet.
Mary’s father, Wendell Berry—American novelist, poet, essayist, environmental activist, cultural critic, and farmer—is the author of The Unsettling of America: Culture and Agriculture. According to Counterpoint Press, “Since its publication in 1977, The Unsettling of America has been recognized as a classic of American letters. Today’s agribusiness, however, takes farming out of its cultural context and away from families. As a result, we as a nation are more estranged from the land—from the intimate knowledge, love, and care of it.”
Mary acknowledged that many of the problems her father wrote about nearly 50 years ago still exist today. Her work at The Berry Center is a testament to her continued optimism. I share her optimism and I remain hopeful, although I often find myself feeling overwhelmed. “When you’re not sure what to do,” Mary said, “start in the center and then do what’s in front of you.”
Before the Institute, I hadn’t heard of Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm, but after hearing from the inspiring women who created this destination restaurant, a trip is now on the calendar. Near Boulder, Utah, basically in the middle of nowhere, Blake Spalding and Jen Castle have just completed their 24th season. Their mission is to put love into the world, fix the broken systems prevalent in the restaurant industry, and eliminate food waste. I started crying when Blake said, “The cure for exhaustion is not rest, it’s wholeheartedness.” As someone who likes to fix things, this sentiment will fuel me when the task at hand seems too daunting.
Matt Skoglund of North Bridger Bison also took the Edible Institute stage, and I’ve never been so proud to be a resident of Montana. Matt told the real story of caring for bison that are ultimately destined for human consumption. His approach includes care for the animals and, just as importantly, the land. I’ll just say that when he shared an image of the ranch, with the bison in the foreground of the Bridger Mountain range, the audience gasped at the beauty. It represents everyday life for the Skoglund family, which is not at all easy but is certainly worthwhile. This publication has given me access to people like the Skoglunds, who inspire me every day.
Enjoy our 19th edition of Edible Bozeman. It’s fueled by information and inspiration from our organization’s conference. We exist to inform and inspire our community to love and care for this place and its inhabitants. We’ll find our way back to the center for each subsequent edition as we endeavor to wholeheartedly put love into the world by telling stories that nourish our community.
Jackie Page
Publisher
